He aha ka ʻokoʻa maoli ma waena o ke silika makepono a me ke silika pipiʻi?

Ua huikau anei ʻoe i ke kumukūʻai nui o nā huahana silika? E aʻo kēia alakaʻi iā ʻoe pehea e ʻike ai i ka silika kiʻekiʻe, i hiki iā ʻoe ke hilinaʻi i kāu kūʻai hou aʻe.Silika kiʻekiʻeUa wehewehe ʻia ʻo [^1] e kona ʻano, ka ʻōlinolino, a me ke kaumaha. Manaʻo ʻia ka silika pipiʻi he palupalu a laumania loa, he ʻōlinolino momi mālie, a ʻoi aku ke kaumaha ma muli o kahi kiʻekiʻeHelu o Māmā[^2]. ʻOi aku ka maʻalahi o ka manaʻo o nā silika makepono, ʻālohilohi e like me ka palakiko, a lahilahi.

Me he mea lā he paʻakikī, akā ʻo ka hoʻokaʻawale ʻana i ka silika maikaʻi mai ka maikaʻi ʻole he mea maʻalahi ke ʻike ʻoe i ka mea e nānā ai. Ma ke ʻano he kanaka i hana me ka silika no kahi kokoke i 20 mau makahiki, hiki iaʻu ke hōʻike iā ʻoe i nā hana maʻalahi no ke kūʻai akamai. E wāwahi kākou i nā kumu nui i hiki iā ʻoe ke kūʻai me ka hilinaʻi a loaʻa i ke ʻano hanohano āu e pono ai.

Pehea e hiki ai iā ʻoe ke ʻike inā kiʻekiʻe ke ʻano o ka silika?

Kū ʻoe i loko o kahi hale kūʻai a nānā paha ma ka pūnaewele, akā ua like nā silika a pau. Pehea ʻoe e ʻike ai i ka maikaʻi mai ka maikaʻi ʻole? Pono ʻoe i nā hoʻāʻo maʻalahi e nānā i ka maikaʻi.Hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ka silika kiʻekiʻe ma o ʻekolu mau mea nui: kona pā ʻana, kona ʻālohilohi, a me kona kaumaha (Momme). Manaʻo ka silika maikaʻi maoli he palupalu a he anuanu, he ʻālohilohi e like me ka momi e loli ana i ka mālamalama, a manaʻo nui, ʻaʻole palupalu. Kūʻē nō hoʻi ia i ka ʻūlū ʻana ke hoʻopili ʻoe.Ma loko o kaʻu ʻoihana ma Wonderful Silk, ua kōkua au i nā mea kūʻai aku he nui ʻole e hoʻomaopopo i kēia mau ʻokoʻa. He nui ka poʻe i kahaha i ka wā e ʻike mua ai lākou i kā mākou silika 22 Momme ma hope o ka hoʻohana ʻia ʻana i nā koho ʻē aʻe ʻoi aku ka makepono. ʻAʻole ʻike wale ʻia ka ʻokoʻa; he mea ia e hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike maoli. I mea e kōkua ai iā ʻoe e lilo i loea, e nānā pono kākou i kēia mau hoʻāʻo.

ʻO kaHoʻāʻo Hoʻopā[^3]

ʻO kēia ke ala maʻalahi loa e hoʻoholo ai i ka silika.Silika kiʻekiʻeHe ʻano kū hoʻokahi ko [^1]. Pono ia e palupalu a laumania loa, me kahi pā anuanu e kūʻē i kou ʻili. Ke holo ʻoe ma kou mau lima, kahe ia e like me ka wai. Loaʻa iā ia kahi elasticity iki; inā ʻoe e huki mālie iā ia, pono e hāʻawi iki a laila hoʻi i kona ʻano. ʻO ka silika haʻahaʻa a i ʻole ka satin polyester, ma ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe, hiki ke manaʻo ʻoʻoleʻa, waxy, a pahee loa paha ma ke ʻano synthetic. ʻO kahi hoʻāʻo maikaʻi loa ma ka home ʻo ia ka hoʻāʻo wrinkle. E hopu i kahi kihi o ka silika a ʻūlū iā ia i loko o kou lima no kekahi mau kekona.Silika kiʻekiʻeʻAʻole nui ka ʻūmiʻi ʻana o [^1], ʻoiai ʻo ka silika makepono e paʻa maʻalahi i nā ʻūmiʻi.

ʻO kaHoʻāʻo ʻōlinolino a me ka ulana[^4]

A laila, e nānā pehea e hōʻike ai ke silika i ka mālamalama.Silika kiʻekiʻe[^1], ʻoi aku hoʻiSilika Mulberry[^5], he ʻōlinolino nani a paʻakikī, ʻaʻole he ʻōlinolino maʻalahi. Pono ia e like me ka momi, me kahi ʻōlinolino mālie e like me ka mea e puka mai ana mai loko mai o ka lole. Ke neʻe ʻoe i ka lole, pono e pāʻani ke kukui ma luna o ka ʻili, e hana ana i nā wahi o ka mālamalama a me ke aka. ʻO kēia no ka mea ʻo ke ʻano triangular o nā olonā silika e hoʻohuli i ka mālamalama ma nā kihi like ʻole. ʻO nā satin synthetic, i ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana, he ʻōlinolino pālahalaha, keʻokeʻo, a ʻālohilohi loa e like me kēlā me kēia kihi. Eia kekahi, e nānā i ka ulana. ʻO kahi lole silika maikaʻi e loaʻa kahi ulana paʻa a kūlike me ka ʻole o nā kīnā a i ʻole nā ​​​​​​mea paʻa.

ʻO wai ke ʻano silika maikaʻi loa?

Ua lohe ʻoe i nā huaʻōlelo e like me Mulberry, Charmeuse, a me Momme, akā he aha ko lākou manaʻo? He huikau ia. Makemake wale ʻoe e kūʻai i ka silika maikaʻi loa, akā ʻo ka jargon e paʻakikī ai ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana.ʻO ka silika maikaʻi loa a kiʻekiʻe loa ma ka honua he 100%Silika Mulberry[^5] me ke kiʻekiʻeHelu o Māmā[^2]. Hānai ʻia i loko o ka hale paʻahao ma ka ʻai paʻa o nā lau mulberry, ʻo kaʻO Bombyx mori[^6]Hana ka ilo silika i nā olonā silika lōʻihi loa, ikaika loa, a like loa, e hana ana i kahi lole hanohano a kūlike ʻole.

Ke haʻi mau nei au i kaʻu mau mea kūʻai aku inā e ʻimi nei lākou i ka mea maikaʻi loa, ʻo ka pane mauSilika Mulberry[^5]. ʻO ka mālama a me ka kaohi e komo i kāna hana ʻana e hopena i kahi pae maikaʻi ʻaʻole hiki i nā silika ʻē aʻe ke hoʻohālikelike. Akā no ka hoʻomaopopo piha ʻana i ke kumu o ka maikaʻi loa, pono ʻoe e hoʻomaopopo i kona kaumaha, a mākou e ana ai ma Momme.

No ke aha i aliʻi ai ka silika Mulberry

ʻO ka mea huna iSilika MulberryʻO ke kūlana kiʻekiʻe o [^5] aia i loko o kāna hana ʻana. ʻO nā ilo silika, i ʻike ʻia ma ke ʻano ʻepekemaʻO Bombyx mori[^6], ua hānai ʻia i loko o kahi ʻano i kāohi ʻia. Hānai ʻia lākou i kahi meaʻai kūikawā o nā lau mai ke kumu mulberry. ʻO kēia kaʻina hana akahele e hōʻoiaʻiʻo ana he lōʻihi loa nā olonā silika a lākou e milo ai no kā lākou mau cocoons, keʻokeʻo maʻemaʻe, a like ka mānoanoa. Ke ulana ʻia kēia mau olonā lōʻihi i loko o ka lole, hana lākou i kahi mea i maʻalahi loa, ikaika, a paʻa. I ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana, hele mai nā "silika hihiu" mai nā ilo e ʻai ana i nā lau like ʻole, e hopena ana i nā olonā pōkole, ʻaʻole like ka like ʻole ʻaʻole palupalu a paʻa paha. ʻO ia ke kumu ke hoʻopukapuka ʻoe i 100%Silika Mulberry[^5], ke hoʻopukapuka nei ʻoe i ka piko loa o ke ʻano silika.

Ke Kūlana o Momme i ka Maikaʻi

ʻO Momme (mm) kahi anakahi kaumaha Kepanī i kēia manawa ke kūlana no ke ana ʻana i ka nui o ka silika. E noʻonoʻo e like me ka helu o nā kaula no ka pulupulu. ʻO ka helu Momme kiʻekiʻe aʻe, ʻo ia hoʻi ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka lole i ka silika hou aʻe no ka mika kuea, e hoʻolilo ana i mea kaumaha, ʻoi aku ka mānoanoa, a ʻoi aku ka paʻa. ʻOiai he maikaʻi ka silika Momme māmā no nā ʻaʻahu palupalu, ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻeHelu o MāmāHe mea nui nā [^2] no nā mea e ʻike nui ʻia ai ka hoʻohana ʻana, e like me nā uhi uluna a me nā pāpale. No kēia mau huahana, paipai pinepine wau e hoʻomaka me 19 Momme, akā hāʻawi ʻo 22 a i ʻole 25 Momme i kahi ʻike ʻoi aku ka hanohano a e lōʻihi loa me ka mālama pono.

He aha nā ʻano silika ʻehā?

Ma waho aʻe o Mulberry, ʻike ʻoe i nā ʻano ʻē aʻe e like me Tussah lāua ʻo Eri. He aha ka ʻokoʻa? Hoʻohui kēia i kahi papa huikau ʻē aʻe. Pono ʻoe e ʻike i ka mea e koho ai no kahi huahana maikaʻi.ʻOiai he nui nā ʻano silika, hāʻule lākou i ʻehā mau ʻano nui: Mulberry, Tussah, Eri, a me Muga. ʻO Mulberry ka mea maʻamau a kiʻekiʻe loa ke ʻano. ʻO nā mea ʻē aʻe ʻekolu i kapa ʻia ʻo "silka hihiu," no ka mea, ua hana ʻia lākou e nā ilo silika i mahi ʻole ʻia.

I loko o koʻu mau makahiki he 20 i ka ʻoihana silika, ua hana au me nā lole he nui, akā ʻo koʻu manaʻo nui ka hāʻawi ʻana i ka mea maikaʻi loa no kaʻu mau mea kūʻai aku. ʻO ia ke kumu ma Wonderful Silk, hoʻohana wale mākouSilika Mulberry[^5]. ʻOiai he nani kū hoʻokahi ko nā silika hihiu, ʻaʻole hiki iā lākou ke hoʻokūkū i ka palupalu mau, ka ikaika, a me ka laumania a kā mākou mea kūʻai aku e manaʻo ai mai kahi huahana hanohano. E nānā pōkole kākou i kēia mau ʻano nui ʻehā i hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ke kumu he koho makemake ʻia ʻo Mulberry no nā waiwai premium.

ʻO ka Poʻokela Aliʻi: Mulberry Silk

E like me kā mākou i kūkākūkā ai,Silika MulberryʻO [^5] ke kūlana gula. He 90% ia o ka lako silika o ka honua. Hana ʻia e kaʻO Bombyx mori[^6]ʻO ka silika ilo, he lōʻihi kona mau olonā, like, a keʻokeʻo maoli nō. ʻAe kēia i ka hoʻoluʻu like ʻana a hopena i ka lole silika palupalu a paʻa loa. ʻO ia wale nō ka silika i hana ʻia e nā silika i mahi ʻia, ʻo ia ke kumu e kūlike ai kona ʻano a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi. Ke kūʻai ʻoe i kahi huahana e like me ka uhi uluna silika a i ʻole ka pāpale lauoho, ʻo ia ke ʻano silika āu e makemake ai.

Nā Silika Hihiu

Hoʻohui pinepine ʻia nā ʻano ʻekolu ʻē aʻe he "silika hihiu" no ka mea ʻaʻole mahi ʻia nā ilo silika a noho lākou i ko lākou wahi maoli.

• Silika Tussah[^8]:Hana ʻia e kahi ʻano ʻokoʻa o ka silika e ʻai ana i nā lau ʻoka. He pōkole a ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī o kēia silika, a he kala gula a ʻeleʻele paha. ʻAʻole palupalu e like meSilika Mulberry[^5] a ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī o ka hoʻoluʻu ʻana.
• ʻEli Silika[^9]:ʻIke ʻia hoʻi ʻo "silka maluhia" no ka mea ua ʻae ʻia nā ilo silika e puka mai i loko o ko lākou mau cocoons ma mua o ka ʻohi ʻia ʻana o ke silika. He pōkole nā ​​olonā a he ʻano huluhulu a pulupulu paha ko lākou, e emi ai ka laumania ma mua oSilika Mulberry[^5].
• Silika Muga[^10]:Hana ʻia kēia silika hihiu kakaʻikahi a pipiʻi hoʻi e nā ilo silika ma Assam, India. Ua kaulana ia no kona ʻōlinolino gula maoli a me ke kūpaʻa loa, akā ʻo kona ʻano ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī e hana ia i mea kūpono ʻole no nā noi palupalu e like me nā uhi uluna.
  

  ʻAno silika	ʻAi ʻana ilo silika	Nā ʻano o ka fiber	Hoʻohana Nui
  Mulberry	Nā lau Mulberry	Lōʻihi, laumania, like, keʻokeʻo maʻemaʻe	Nā moena moe hanohano[^7], lole
  ʻO Tussah	ʻOak a me nā lau ʻē aʻe	ʻOi aku ka pōkole, ʻoi aku ka ʻoʻoleʻa, ke kala gula maoli	Nā lole kaumaha, nā ʻaʻahu
  ʻEli	Lau Castor	Pōkole, huluhulu, mānoanoa, keʻokeʻo ʻōniʻoniʻo	Nā ʻaʻahu moe, nā pākeke
  Muga	Nā lau Som & Soalu	ʻO ke gula maoli, paʻa loa,	Nā lole kuʻuna India

Hopena

I ka hopena, ʻo ka ʻokoʻa ma waena o ka silika makepono a me ke silika pipiʻi e iho i lalo i ke kumu, ke kaumaha, a me ke ʻano.Silika Mulberry[^5] me kahi kiʻekiʻe aʻeHelu o MāmāHāʻawi ʻo [^2] i ka palupalu, ke kūpaʻa, a me ka hoʻohiwahiwa.

[^1]: ʻO ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i nā ʻano o ka silika kiʻekiʻe e hiki ke kōkua iā ʻoe e hoʻoholo i nā hoʻoholo kūʻai naʻauao. [^2]: E aʻo e pili ana i ka helu Momme e hoʻomaopopo pehea e pili ai i ka maikaʻi a me ke kūpaʻa o ka silika. [^3]: E hoʻokele i ka Hoʻāʻo Hoʻopā e ʻike maʻalahi i ka silika kiʻekiʻe i ke kūʻai ʻana. [^4]: E ʻimi i kēia hoʻāʻo e hoʻomaopopo pehea e hōʻike ai ka silika i ka mālamalama a me kona ʻano ulana. [^5]: E ʻike i ke kumu he kūlana gula ka silika Mulberry i ka maikaʻi o ka silika a me kāna kaʻina hana kū hoʻokahi. [^6]: E aʻo e pili ana i ka silkworm Bombyx mori a me kāna kuleana i ka hana ʻana i ka silika premium. [^7]: E ʻike i ke kumu he koho makemake ʻia ka silika no nā moena moe hanohano a me kona mau pono. [^8]: E aʻo e pili ana i ka hana ʻana o Tussah Silk a me kona mau hiʻohiʻona ʻokoʻa i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka silika Mulberry. [^9]: E ʻike i nā waiwai kūikawā o Eri Silk a me kāna mau noi i nā lole. [^10]: E ʻimi i ka laha ʻole a me nā ʻano o Muga Silk, kahi ʻano silika hihiu kū hoʻokahi.