He aha ka ʻokoʻa ma waena o ka siliki makamae a me ke kilika?

Pihoihoi anei ʻoe i ke kumukūʻai nui o nā huahana kilika? Na kēia alakaʻi e aʻo iā ʻoe pehea e ʻike ai i ka siliki kiʻekiʻe, no laila hiki iā ʻoe ke hilinaʻi i kāu kūʻai aʻe.Kilika kiʻekiʻeUa wehewehe ʻia [^1] e kona ʻano, luster, a me ke kaumaha. ʻO ka siliki makamae he palupalu a maʻemaʻe hoʻi, he ʻōlino momi mālie, a ʻoi aku ke kaumaha ma muli o ke kiʻekiʻe.Helu Māmā[^2]. ʻO nā silika ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi o ka maʻemaʻe, he ʻālohilohi e like me ka plastik, a ʻoi aku ka lahilahi.

He paʻakikī paha ia, akā maʻalahi ka haʻi ʻana i ka siliki maikaʻi a me ka ʻino ke ʻike ʻoe i ka mea e nānā ai. Ma keʻano he kanaka i hana me ka siliki no nā makahiki he 20, hiki iaʻu ke hōʻike iā ʻoe i nā hana maʻalahi i kahi kūʻai akamai. E hoʻokaʻawale mākou i nā kumu nui i hiki iā ʻoe ke kūʻai me ka hilinaʻi a loaʻa ka maikaʻi nani āu e pono ai.

Pehea ʻoe e ʻike ai inā he kiʻekiʻe ke kilika?

Ke kū nei ʻoe i loko o kahi hale kūʻai a nānā paha ma ka pūnaewele, akā like nā kilika a pau. Pehea ʻoe e ʻike ai i ka maikaʻi a me ka hewa? Pono ʻoe i nā hoʻokolohua maʻalahi e nānā i ka maikaʻi.Hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ka siliki kiʻekiʻe ma nā mea nui ʻekolu: kona pā, kona ʻālohilohi, a me kona kaumaha (Momme). ʻO ka siliki maikaʻi maoli ka palupalu a me ka ʻoluʻolu, he ʻōlinolino like me ka momi e loli ana i ka mālamalama, a manaʻo nui, ʻaʻole palupalu. ʻAʻole ʻo ia i ka wrinkling ke ʻohi ʻoe.I kaʻu ʻoihana ma Wonderful Silk, ua kōkua au i nā mea kūʻai he nui e hoʻomaopopo i kēia mau ʻokoʻa. Pīhoihoi ka poʻe he nui i ko lākou manaʻo mua ʻana i kā mākou 22 Momme silk ma hope o ka hoʻohana ʻia ʻana i nā koho ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi. ʻAʻole ʻike wale ʻia ka ʻokoʻa; he mea hiki iā ʻoe ke manaʻo maoli. No ke kōkua ʻana iā ʻoe e lilo i loea, e nānā pono kākou i kēia mau hoʻokolohua.

ʻO kaHoʻopā ʻana[^3]

ʻO kēia ke ala maʻalahi e hoʻokolokolo ai i ka siliki.Kilika kiʻekiʻeHe manaʻo kū hoʻokahi ko [^1]. Pono e ʻoluʻolu a maʻalahi, me ka hoʻopā ʻana i kou ʻili. Ke holo ʻoe ma kou mau lima, kahe ia e like me ka wai. Loaʻa iā ia kahi elasticity liʻiliʻi; inā huki mālie ʻoe, pono e hāʻawi iki a hoʻi i kona ʻano. ʻO ka siliki haʻahaʻa a i ʻole polyester satin, ma ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe, hiki ke manaʻo i ka ʻoʻoleʻa, ka waxy, a i ʻole ka paheʻe nui ma ke ʻano synthetic. ʻO kahi hoʻāʻo nui ma ka home ʻo ka hōʻike wrinkle. E hopu i kahi kihi o ke kilika a e ku'i ma kou lima no kekahi mau kekona.Kilika kiʻekiʻe[^1] liʻiliʻi ka wrinkling, ʻoiai ʻo ka siliki liʻiliʻi e paʻa maʻalahi i nā peʻe.

ʻO kaHoao Luster a Weave[^4]

A laila, e nānā i ka ʻike ʻana o ke kilika i ka mālamalama.Kilika kiʻekiʻe[^1], ʻoi akuSilika Mulberry[^5], he nani a paʻakikī, ʻaʻole he ʻālohilohi maʻalahi. Pono ke ʻano o ka momi, me ka ʻālohilohi mālie e ʻike ʻia mai loko mai o ka lole. Ke hoʻoneʻe ʻoe i ka lole, pono e pāʻani ke kukui ma luna o ka ʻili, e hana i nā wahi o ka mālamalama a me ke aka. ʻO kēia no ka mea, ʻo ke ʻano triangular o nā fiber silk e hoʻomāmā i nā kukui ma nā kihi like ʻole. ʻO nā satin synthetic, he ʻokoʻa, he pālahalaha, keʻokeʻo, a me ka ʻālohilohi nui loa e like me kēlā me kēia kihi. Eia kekahi, e nānā i ka ulana. ʻO kahi lole silika maikaʻi e loaʻa i kahi ulana paʻa a paʻa ʻole me ka ʻike ʻole ʻia o nā hemahema a i ʻole nā ​​​​pahu.

ʻO wai ka maikaʻi o ke kilika?

Ua lohe ʻoe i nā huaʻōlelo e like me Mulberry, Charmeuse, a me Momme, akā he aha ka manaʻo? Huikau. Makemake wale ʻoe e kūʻai i ka siliki maikaʻi loa, akā paʻakikī ka jargon e hoʻohālikelike.ʻO ka siliki maikaʻi loa a kiʻekiʻe loa ma ka honua he 100%Silika Mulberry[^5] me kahi kiʻekiʻeHelu Māmā[^2]. Hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻia i ke pio ʻana ma kahi ʻai koʻikoʻi o nā lau mulberry, kaBombyx mori[^6]ʻO ka enuhe silika ka loaʻa ʻana o ka lole silika lōʻihi loa, ikaika a ʻano like ʻole.

Ke haʻi aku nei au i kaʻu mea kūʻai aku inā lākou e ʻimi nei i ka mea maikaʻi loa, ʻo ka pane mauSilika Mulberry[^5]. ʻO ka mālama ʻana a me ka hoʻomalu ʻana i loko o kāna hana e hopena i kahi pae o ka maikaʻi i hiki ʻole i nā kilika ʻē aʻe ke hoʻohālikelike. Akā no ka hoʻomaopopo piha ʻana i ke kumu o ka maikaʻi loa, pono ʻoe e hoʻomaopopo i kona kaumaha, a mākou e ana ma Momme.

No ke aha e noho aliʻi ai ʻo Mulberry Silk

Ka mea huna iSilika MulberryAia ka ʻoi o [^5] i kāna hana ʻana. ʻO nā enuhe kilika, ʻike ʻia ma ka ʻepekemaBombyx mori[^6], hānai ʻia ma kahi ʻano hoʻomalu. Hānai ʻia lākou i ka ʻai kūʻokoʻa o nā lau mai ka lāʻau mulberry. ʻO kēia kaʻina hana akahele e hōʻoia i ka lōʻihi loa o nā kaula silika a lākou e milo ai no kā lākou niu, keʻokeʻo maʻemaʻe, a ʻaʻahu like ka mānoanoa. Ke ulana ʻia kēia mau kaula lōʻihi i lole, hana lākou i mea ʻoluʻolu, ikaika, a paʻa. ʻO ka ʻokoʻa, loaʻa mai nā "silika hihiu" mai nā ilo e ʻai ana i nā lau like ʻole, e hopena i ka pōkole a me ka liʻiliʻi o nā fiber like ʻole i palupalu a paʻa ʻole. ʻO kēia ke kumu i ka wā e hoʻokomo ai ʻoe i 100%Silika Mulberry[^5], ke hoʻolilo nei ʻoe i ka ʻoi loa o ka maikaʻi siliki.

ʻO ke kuleana o Māmā i ka maikaʻi

ʻO Momme (mm) kahi ʻāpana Kepanī o ke kaumaha i kēia manawa ka maʻamau no ke ana ʻana i ka nui kilika. E noʻonoʻo e like me ka helu milo no ka pulupulu. ʻO ka helu Momme kiʻekiʻe, ʻo ia ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka lole i ka siliki no kēlā me kēia mika square, e hoʻonui ai i ke kaumaha, ʻoi aku ka paʻa, a ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi. ʻOiai ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka silk Momme māmā no nā ʻulaʻula palupalu, ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻeHelu MāmāHe mea nui ka [^2]s no nā mea i ʻike hou aku i ka hoʻohana ʻana, e like me nā uhi uluna a me nā pāpale. No kēia mau huahana, ʻōlelo pinepine au e hoʻomaka me 19 Momme, akā ʻo 22 a i ʻole 25 Momme e hāʻawi i kahi ʻike ʻoi aku ka nani a lōʻihi loa me ka mālama pono.

He aha nā ʻano kilika ʻehā?

Ma waho aʻe o Mulberry, ʻike ʻoe i nā ʻano ʻē aʻe e like me Tussah a me Eri. He aha ka ʻokoʻa? Hoʻohui kēia i kahi papa o ka huikau. Pono ʻoe e ʻike i ka mea e koho ai no kahi huahana maikaʻi.ʻOiai he nui nā ʻano siliki, hāʻule lākou i ʻehā mau ʻano nui: Mulberry, Tussah, Eri, a me Muga. ʻO Mulberry ka mea maʻamau a kiʻekiʻe loa. ʻO nā mea ʻekolu ʻē aʻe i kapa ʻia ʻo "nā silika hihiu," no ka mea, ua hana ʻia lākou e nā enuhe silika i mahi ʻole ʻia.

I loko o koʻu mau makahiki he 20 i ka ʻoihana kilika, ua hana au me nā lole he nui, akā ʻo koʻu manaʻo mau nō ka hoʻolako ʻana i ka mea maikaʻi loa no kaʻu mea kūʻai aku. ʻO ia ke kumu ma Wonderful Silk, aneane mākou e hoʻohana waleSilika Mulberry[^5]. ʻOiai ua loaʻa i nā siliki hihiu ko lākou nani kūʻokoʻa, ʻaʻole hiki iā lākou ke hoʻohālikelike i ka palupalu paʻa, ka ikaika, a me ka maʻalahi i manaʻo ʻia e kā mākou mea kūʻai mai kahi huahana waiwai. E ʻimi pōkole kākou i kēia mau ʻano nui ʻehā i hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ke kumu ʻo Mulberry ka mea i koho ʻia no nā waiwai premium.

Ka Poʻokela: Mulberry Silk

E like me kā mākou i kūkākūkā ai,Silika Mulberry[^5] ka hae gula. Aia ma kahi o 90% o ka lako silika o ka honua. Hana ʻia e kaBombyx mori[^6]enuhe kilika, lōʻihi kona mau olonā, ʻaʻahu, a keʻokeʻo maoli. ʻAe kēia i ke kala ʻana a loaʻa i ka lole silika ʻoi loa a paʻa loa i loaʻa. ʻO ia wale nō ka silika i hana ʻia e nā ʻano silika i mahi ʻia, ʻo ia ke kumu i kūpaʻa ai kona maikaʻi a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi. Ke kūʻai aku ʻoe i kahi huahana e like me ka pahu uluna silika a i ʻole ka pāpale lauoho, ʻo ia ke ʻano siliki āu e makemake ai.

Na Silika Ahiu

Hoʻohui pinepine ʻia nā ʻano ʻekolu ʻē aʻe ma ke ʻano he "silk wild" no ka mea ʻaʻole mahiʻai ʻia nā ʻano silika a noho i ko lākou wahi kūlohelohe.

• Tussah Silika[^8]:Hana ʻia e kekahi ʻano ʻano ʻano silika e ʻai ana i nā lau ʻoka. ʻOi aku ka pōkole o kēia kilika, ʻoi aku ke koʻikoʻi a me ke kala gula maoli a ʻeleʻele paha. ʻAʻole palupalu e like meSilika Mulberry[^5] a ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī o ke kala ʻana.
• Eri Silika[^9]:ʻIke ʻia hoʻi ʻo "peace silk" no ka mea ua ʻae ʻia nā ʻano silika e puka mai i kā lākou niu ma mua o ka ʻohi ʻia ʻana o ke kilika. ʻOi aku ka pōkole a loaʻa i ka huluhulu a i ʻole ka pulupulu e like me ke ʻano o ka pulupulu, ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi ma mua oSilika Mulberry[^5].
• Muga Silika[^10]:Hoʻopuka ʻia kēia kilika hihiu loaʻa a pipiʻi e nā ʻano silika ma Assam, India. ʻIke ʻia ʻo ia no kona ʻōlino gula maoli a me ka lōʻihi loa, akā ʻo kona ʻano ʻano ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi ʻole no nā noi haʻahaʻa e like me nā pillowcases.
  

  ʻAno Silika	ʻAi ʻAi Silika	Nā hiʻohiʻona fiber	Hoohana nui
  Mulberry	ʻO nā lau Mulberry	ʻO ka lōʻihi, ka laumania, kaʻaʻahu, keʻokeʻo maʻemaʻe	Moena moe nani[^7], ʻaʻahu
  Tussah	ʻOka a me nā lau ʻē aʻe	ʻOi aku ka pōkole, ʻoi aʻe, ke kala gula maoli	ʻO nā lole kaumaha, nā lole
  Eri	ʻO ka lau castor	Pōkole, huluhulu, mānoanoa, keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo	Shawls, blankets
  Muga	Lau Som & Soalu	He gula maoli, ʻeleʻele, lōʻihi loa	Nā lole kahiko o Inia

Ka hopena

ʻO ka hope loa, ʻo ka ʻokoʻa ma waena o ka siliki makaʻu a me ka pipiʻi e iho mai i ke kumu, ke kaumaha, a me ka manaʻo. kūlana kiʻekiʻeSilika Mulberry[^5] me kahi kiʻekiʻeHelu Māmā[^2] hāʻawi i ka palupalu like ʻole, ka lōʻihi, a me ka nani.

[^1]: ʻO ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i nā hiʻohiʻona o ka siliki kiʻekiʻe e hiki ke kōkua iā ʻoe e hoʻoholo i nā hoʻoholo kūʻai. [^2]: E aʻo e pili ana i ka helu ʻo Momme e hoʻomaopopo i kona hopena i ka maikaʻi siliki a me ka lōʻihi. [^3]: E aʻo i ka hoʻāʻo ʻana e ʻike maʻalahi i ka siliki kiʻekiʻe ke kūʻai aku. [^4]: E ʻimi i kēia hoʻāʻo e hoʻomaopopo i ka ʻike ʻana o ke kilika i ka mālamalama a me kona ʻano ulana. [^5]: E ʻike i ke kumu o ka silika Mulberry ke kūlana gula ma ke ʻano kilika a me kāna kaʻina hana kūʻokoʻa. [^6]: E aʻo e pili ana i ka ʻano ʻano silika Bombyx mori a me kāna kuleana i ka hana ʻana i ka siliki premium. [^7]: E ʻike i ke kumu i koho ʻia ai ke kilika no nā moena moe nani a me kona mau pono. [^8]: E aʻo e pili ana i ka hana ʻana a Tussah Silk a me kāna mau hiʻohiʻona ʻokoʻa ke hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka siliki Mulberry. [^9]: E ʻike i nā waiwai kūʻokoʻa o Eri Silk a me kāna mau noi i ka textiles. [^10]: E ʻimi i ka laha ʻole a me nā hiʻohiʻona o Muga Silk, kahi ʻano siliki hihiu.